Black hair is a beautiful thing. From the Crown Act, which would make workplace discrimation against hair texture and expression of hair styling based on race illegal, to individuals boldly wearing their hair in any manner of styles like locs, twists, braids, shaved, fades, or even straight, Black hair is an undeniable part of cultural identity and recognition. There are many types of Black hair ranging from type 1, which is straight, all the way to type 4C which has a lush or occasionally coarse look and feel often synonymous with afros. The need to care for the hair responsibly and respectfully comes with each texture and style.

In tribal Africa, at the onset of slavery, people often used hair to identify family lineage, identity, and financial station. According to “Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America,” Black people were robbed of that identity when arriving in the Americas and Europe, hindering the opportunity to recognize, connect, and communicate with family or fellow citizens from their countries of origin. Today, Black hair exists more as a personal expression of identity – some people wear their hair in natural styles to honor ancestry, for fashion, and even for convenience. Other people don protective styles to safeguard their natural hair from exploitation and curious hands, for aesthetic reasons, or to free it from the stress of daily styling.

Musician, producer, and Academy Award-winning actress Queen Latifah once said about Black hair: “Having Black hair is unique in that Black women change up styles a lot. You can walk down one street block in New York City and see 10 different hairstyles that Black women are wearing: straight, curls, shortcuts, braids – we really run the gamut.” One of the significant things that makes Black hair unique is its porosity. That is the hair’s ability to hold and retain moisture. Porosity is a crucial component to the careful management of Black hair since moisture needs to be replenished to maintain the hair’s elasticity, and is especially important for Black people who identify as vegans. So many products currently on the market contain animal ingredients like castor oil, lactic acid, and honey — substances that claim to moisturize and protect. Some brands even go a step further by including harmful chemicals like formaldehyde and lye. That’s why trends toward natural products are big business, with salons and stylists adopting specific knowledge about products and styles that cater to a wide range of customers and belief systems. Here are some ingredients gaining popularity with Black vegans.

For some, fenugreek is helpful because it’s been shown to interact with dihydrotestosterone or DHT – otherwise known as the hair-loss hormone. When DHT attaches to hair follicles, the result is hair loss. However, fenugreek may be instrumental in blocking DHT, lessening breakage and loss over time. Fenugreek can be ingested as a nutritional supplement, used alone as a conditioner, or combined with other ingredients like African shea butter or coconut oil to create a leave-in moisturizer for the hair. Due to some of its other uses, fenugreek should be discussed with a holistic hair stylist and a physician or naturopath before using to ensure that it won’t interfere with other health issues or treatments.

Rosemary essential oil has been shown to stimulate hair growth. It has a savory scent, which combines nicely with fenugreek and other follicle friendly essential oils like clary sage and chamomile. Its natural astringent qualities keep the hair and scalp clean and dandruff-free. Finding a naturally sourced oil, which has been extracted via distillation is important to ensure that this vegan oil stays free of any additives that can harm hair or dilute its purity.

Raw African shea butter is derived from the nuts of karité trees and is a 100% vegan product in its natural state. It has a thick, almost waxy consistency which melts when warmed by the hands. The application of shea butter to the hair when wet or when styling acts as a protectant against the elements and allows for greater ease when styling. Coconut oil is another all-natural, vegan product. It has a light scent and can be used as a hair and scalp treatment. Olive oil is high in vitamin E, and is vegan, provided that the oil is raw, cold-pressed, and undiluted with other oils.

Black hair is neither fun, nor is it exotic. It’s not something to be touched in an unsolicited manner, mocked, nor is it an oddity. It’s an expression of culture and self for millions of people. Finding products that align with ethnic identity and lifestyle is a constant battle for vegans. That is why learning about ingredients or even becoming skilled in creating products for personal use is the perfect way to honor Black hair. 

Sources: Curly Nikki, Sierra Club, “Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America” by Ayana D. Byrd and Lori L. Tharps